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Nailheads: The Stylish Bead |
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NailheadsThey're sassy, classy and mysterious. They've got style up the wazoo. Nailheads are certainly one of the bead world's many blessings, with a history that's hard to trace and a story worth telling. What is a nailhead? Well, it's a bead made from pressed glass with a flat back and a domed or elevated top which is either faceted or patterned. They sometimes had one hole, but most have two or more holes. This shape made them ideal to sew down onto fabric or flat surfaces, but also multi-dimensional for jewelry making.
 Looking for Cluesâ¦
I've been looking for information about nailheads for years. I've asked other knowledgeable vintage bead collectors, sent inquiries to the bead museums and societies, surfed the web, talked to designers and asked anyone who might know a glimmer of the beginning of nailhead lore. No one knows for sure. So I traced it back as far as I can, and this is what I learned.
In the Beginning I'm convinced that the nailhead was on the fashion scene long before this information, because of its developed sense of style when it began surfacing in recorded history. It only needed an event to become exposed to the world in a big way, and it got it. Popularity only needs an opportunity, and it can take on a life of its own.
 The evolution of popularity for nailheads begins in Victorian England as far as I know, and this is why I think so: The end of the 19th century mourning jewelry was at its peak, erupting with the death of Prince Albert in December, 1861. Queen Victoria went into deep mourning, and her subjects followed, going to great lengths to be fashionable during these times. The jewelry itself was mostly made of jet from Whitby, England. For people on budget, French glass bead makers produced similar designs in black glass which became known as French Jet. This timeslot of manufacturing explains why there is an abundance in black, gunmetal, charcoal and scarabee finishes. The designs ranged from simple strands to draping, multiple strands of beads and drops. The connector pieces were flat to lay flush against the skin: a sign of modesty. This bead, a flat backed sew-on type bead is mentioned here for the first time in bead history.
The Discovery of Something Good
Queen Victoria passed away in 1901, and the mourning period pretty much left with her. But those lovely flat connector pieces in the styles of mourning jewelry stayed, and evolved quickly into the nailhead we know today. From 1901 to 1920 those beads spread like wild fire. The appeal came from their flat shape, which made it possible to sew them onto fabrics, hats, home decor and more. And let's not forget about the jewelry that continued to flow.
The Glamour of an Era The early 20th century was a fashionable time with each passing year bringing a touch more of glitz and glamour. Those lovely flat beads were faceted on the domed top to give them sparkle and shine, and the glass sequin was essentially born. Bead makers from around the world jumped on this bandwagon, creating different shapes, sizes and finishes with high luster. Branching out from opaque black, the transparent nailhead in brilliant colors moved onto the scene. Bohemian and Czech bead makers cranked out hundreds of thousands of these, and they were used in theater costuming, jewelry production, textiles and the like. Bohemian bead makers specialized in transparent beads with high gloss, lusters and finishes. Czech bead makers specialized in some transparent colors as well, but mostly a large range of colors in opaque glass. 
Design Changes over Time Older nailheads from the late 1800's are easy to spot. They're usually black, two holed and have rough edges. The reason for the "unfinished" edges is that pressed glass beads were made in molds, and then the beads were chipped apart from each other. The edges were smoothed by hand using hammers, chisels and files, and were left imperfect. Nailheads made into the 20th century had smoother edges, and were available in more variety of colors. Nature shapes were very popular in the early decades of the 1900's, so you'll find acorns, leaves, flowers, insects and if you're lucky, fruit. France produced fleur de lis styles and geometric shapes. Even on the round nailheads with faceted patterns on top, the styles are different and have such personality.
 Nailheads Today
By incorporating nailheads into your work you'll add another texture and dimension. They've got tons of personality, and your jewelry will shine with it. And the good news is that you've got a lot to chose from, since nailheads come in so many styles. Watch our site for nailheads, since they tend to pop in on a pretty regular basis.
"Itself a circle, the bead brings heritage of antiquity to new life at the turn of this millennial century."
~Cheryl Coburn Brown, The Bead Museum, Glendale AZ
References:
www.agrainofsand.com
http://tinyurl.com/5uqceb
http://www.etsy.com/shop.php?user_id=5259947
www.blacktulipdesigns.com
www.empyreanbeads.com
www.beadandbutton.com
Heather DeSimone, Co-Owner of the Beadinâ Path
 
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