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Get a glass of iced tea and put on your slippers. This is a really long article that turned out to be excruciatingly difficult for me in my attempts to shorten it. So I apologize. But I don’t feel badly, since you’re about to see some fantastic pioneers in contemporary jewelry. While doing my usual daily browsing through the web to see what people are making, I stumbled across the stylized designs of the people I’m about to introduce you to, and I was stricken. In contrast to my usual response of “how nice” or “that’s pretty”, I found myself silent and thinking. And impressed.
Around the block
In my travels over the years I’ve managed to cross paths with a lot of beads, jewelry and people. Not a lot surprises me any more, but in the same breath I’ll say I yearn to be blown away by an artist, a bead or a technique. Have I become too desensitized? Apparently not, since these five artists have gotten my atention so easily. Here’s what happened.
The e-mails
After introducing myself, I asked these 5 artists the same 5 questions and asked them to forward me some pictures that they thought represented their jewelry. Too many times I’ve heard designers complain that they feel alone on a desert island. There’s not enough communication between artists because of the desire to protect designs. But its interesting to hear about the journey as an artist, the thinking process of designing, and where influences come from. So bear with me while I ask the same questions over and over, and have a great time reading each artist individually. And I encourage you to explore their work further.
 Meet Elitsa from KUKLAstudio
Upon first glance, I nearly fell out of my chair. It was a pair of earrings made by Elitsa in a swirling, organic swish of wire. The contrast of the oxidation was severe and the hardness of the wire was somehow softened by the swirling spiral shapes. My first thought: No one does it like this. Why didn’t I think of that??? And to top it off, during a more intimate look at her Etsy page I realized that she’s incorporating resin into her wire work. To my knowledge no one is doing that either. This very talented designer is paving a new road through the jewelry industry. Here is some insight into her journey.
How long have you been designing jewelry?
I have always been into making things. I like to draw, am interested in photography and have worked with ceramics and I think designing jewelry was just another way of creating. But it has been five or six years now since I’ve dedicated most of my time to jewelry making.
What other designers have influenced your work?
I don't think there are designers who have really influenced my work. There are so many beautiful things in nature and there are also many beautiful items made by human thought and I enjoy seeing all of them. I have seen the work of some exceptional artists and one that I admire truly is Rene Lalique. I am really impressed by artists from that epoch for being so talented and versatile - working in many fields and reaching perfection in every material and media they were using in their work.
 What is your best advice to new designers who are looking to be unique in a market flooded with similarity?
If there is something that provokes you to create things I think it's very important to look for and show something unique - not because the market is flooded but because only that will make your creation worth the effort. Don't be afraid to experiment and if there is something you can learn from other artists - use it, but be very careful about plagiarism. The only way you can create something of value is by creating something truly yours. This is the energy people respond to when they see your work.
What is your design process?
Sometimes I have an idea and directly start working on the jewelry piece, while other times I prefer drawing sketches first and experimenting with ideas after that. It all depends on the mood, I guess.
What are your favorite materials to work with?
I have been experimenting with various materials but I could say that metal, and especially wire, is the material which I really enjoy working with. It just gives you so many possibilities - it's solid yet at the same time flexible, you can freely create so many shapes and forms. It can look gentle and strong, plain and elaborate, classic and modern. There is so much in it.
What are some of your favorite pieces of jewelry you’ve created and why?
The favorite pieces always change. Sometimes I'm so happy with an item I've made, I think it's the best thing I've ever done. Then time passes and another favorite appears. I love my landscape earrings. I created a whole collection for an Art Nouveau Craft Fair near Barcelona that I took part in a couple of years ago. Some examples can be found on my Etsy page. An old favorite are my Red Tulips Earrings. A very new favorites are two pairs of earrings which I'll be adding to my Etsy page soon - Sunflower Earrings and Autumn Leaves - inspired by the Fall
 Meet Olga from Neroli Handmade Artisan Jewelry
I have to remind myself to blink when I look at Olga’s jewelry. I simply can’t stop staring at the perfect coils, the symmetry, the design, the construction and just how beautiful each piece is. I realize that that there’s a lot of wire jewelry being made out there, but these pieces just have a quality and sense of design that is outstanding. They’re built carefully like a small piece of architecture. My eye follows the design and I can see how each piece is built, and I think they’re brilliant, and for someone who’s only been working with wire for a short time, its pretty impressive.
How long have you been designing jewelry?
I started working with wire about 2 1/2 years ago, and never really stopped since then. I wasn't too much into jewelry before that, although I always liked to make things with my hands.
What other designers have influenced your work?
I spent hours admiring Iza Malczyk work (http://www.izamalczyk.com), she's been a real inspiration for me.
What is your best advice to new designers who are looking to be unique in a market flooded with similarity?
Don't be afraid to experiment with new techniques and materials. The more you try, the more new and interesting ideas will come to you.
 What is your design process?
Design process is always different depending on the project. Sometimes I just play with some scrap wire and accidently stumble upon something beautiful. Some designs are carefully planned and sketched and they end up looking almost exactly like I initially envisioned them. Sometimes I get inspired by certain materials and they pretty much dictate the whole project, like they have the mind of their own. I try to be really open to anything that can inspire me and don't forget to write down my ideas before I forget them.
What are your favorite materials to work with?
I love working with copper and sterling silver wire. There is something about the look of deeply oxidized wire wrapped piece of jewelry that makes me really excited. I also like to incorporate natural stones into my jewelry, both rustic and fine ones, depending on the project.
What are some of your favorite pieces of jewelry you’ve created and why?
It's really hard to pick favorites - there are so many, I work in many different techniques and styles. I'm very fond of some of my wire wrapped pieces, accented with semiprecious stones, that combine simple shape with intricate wrapping that produces beautiful texture, especially when oxidized and polished to accentuate the texture - such as my Wheel Window Necklace, Garnet Fans Necklace and Earrings, or my Peacock Tale Necklace.
 Meet Elisa from Rely Design
Paper is a mystery to me. A beautiful, mysterious medium that always mesmerizes me when its transformed into beads or pendants. It seems so weightless and fragile, and yet it can sustain design shapes and be transformed into wearable art. I especially admire Elisa’s jewelry since not only do I love the design shapes, I love the paper patterns and colors she chooses. The thing with paper jewelry is that you need to be precise, exact and mathematically balanced to have it work. I think its genius when it works, and here is paper perfection!
How long have you been designing jewelry?
I started to do handmade things many years ago. I went to an art school so I was used to designing something and creating it with a paper model, so my love from paper probably starts there!!
What other designers have influenced your work?
I think that when you surf the net a lot you are kind of “bombed” with pictures, shots, new ideas, tutorials... and in some ways you assimilate them! Then you just have to find your way to make it unique. I love in particular to look at artists who use paper, recycled items or natural materials.
What is your best advice to new designers who are looking to be unique in a market flooded with similarity?
I think that every area is full of similarity, so the only thing is to find something that can make your style or production in some way different. It's also great to pay attention to the contemporary culture and sometimes to go countertrend. Often the provocation can be creative.
 What is your design process?
Usually I’ll start with an idea and try to create it in paper. Sometimes its easy and sometimes I have to make the same bead 2 or 3 times before finding the right one that I had in mind. Once I wanted to reproduce a drop to make an old fashion earring. It wasn't easy but at the end I was really happy!
What are your favorite materials to work with?
My favorites are paper, cardboard and recycled paper. Making a bead with recycled paper is fun because the material starts a new life like something different, like a bead from a tea box. When the paper it's folded or rolled up you can't understand what it was before.
What are some of your favorite pieces of jewelry you’ve created and why?
I don't really have a favorite! I love them all! Especially when I am creating them and I have the idea in my mind. Each time I am really looking forward to the results. I love to be inspired by nature so I was really happy the first time I realized the apple and pepper designs! Right now I really appreciate the Lotus design and I’m working on some variations of it.
 Meet Lisa from That Old Blue House
The vintage little girl in me took one look at Lisa’s amazing jewelry and did the squealing happy dance, clapping and twirling in circles! These delicate wisps of fine old lace and antique quilt pieces are forever trapped in a handmade glass home, preserved and protected and oh, so beautiful. With the craze in collage, steampunk and mixed media, you can commonly see old fabrics and lace among other stuff like skeleton keys and the like. But all of those contain a modern style or trend feel when they’re assembled. This jewelry is simple, orderly and pristine. It’s a true piece of time captured in glass to be enjoyed forever.
How long have you been designing jewelry?
I have been designing jewelry for over 10 years.
What other designers have influenced your work?
I can't say there are any other designers who have influenced my work. I appreciate a lot of other designers, however, I tend to be more influenced by my own personal tastes and moods.
 What is your best advice to new designers who are looking to be unique in a market flooded with similarity?
This is a hard question to answer. The best advice I can give would be to make what you like. Look at other designers but don't copy their work, glean ideas, etc. Don't be afraid to experiment and think outside the box. Finding your own style doesn't happen overnight, it is a process. But always strive for making good quality pieces that you would be happy to wear yourself.
What is your design process?
My background is as a stained glass artist. All my jewelry is made using stained glass techniques. I just incorporate my love of vintage items into my pieces.
What are your favorite materials to work with?
My favorite materials to work with are crazy quilts. I buy old, tattered crazy quilts and salvage the areas that have not deteriorated too much. I am fascinated by the fact that these "works of art" still survive today, and that the women (and men) who created these quilts not only spent hours creating them, but then used them! The embroidery on the crazy quilts are fantastic examples of fiber art & I can get lost "playing" in my stash of quilts looking for the right pieces to use,
 Meet Jessica from Involution
You all should know by now that handmade felt makes me swoon and melt into a puddle. I can’t get enough of it, even when my hands are raw from the ruthless workings of wool. So any felt-wokring artist is a kin, you know? Jessica’s take on wool with embellished embroidery is brilliant. Its fun, sophisticated and lighthearted with a seriousness and softness about it. Each tiny hand-formed ball is a tiny canvass to be adorned with fibers in a methodical and delicate way. And the colors. Mmmmm!
How long have you been designing jewelry?
Oddly enough, only about a year. I never consciously set out to do jewelry, either - I'm not sure what I had in mind, but somehow when I sat down to play, what I was holding in my hands began to look a lot like jewelry. Thus the beginning of my career as a jewelry maker was really more of a surrender than a proactive decision.
What other designers have influenced your work?
I adore Sonya Yong James of Modern Fiber Lab. Like me, she is first and foremost a fiber artist who happens to sometimes make jewelry from her chosen medium. When I saw her work for the first time, the textures, warmth, and creativity seeped into my pores and something in the world shifted for me. I also appreciate the work of Maria Joáo Ribeiro of Kjoo - I adore the idea that jewelry can be wildly colorful, made of unconventional materials, and still exude quality and elegance.
 What is your best advice to new designers who are looking to be unique in a market flooded with similarity?
You've got to be willing to create things that some people just aren't going to like. When you go out on a limb there is just no way to please everyone. But trust yourself - you will find people who love what you do because it reaches into their own uniqueness, and in doing so speaks to them in a more personal and compelling way than generic design ever could.
What is your design process?
It's very unpredictable. Sometimes it feels like my job is not to design, but merely to support the design to come into being on its own. Ideas pop into my head unbidden at the oddest times, and if I'm lucky I'll write them down. Later, when I'm working out a design, I try to follow my impulses without thinking. The design sometimes turns out quite differently than what I had intended, but allowing my work to have a life of its own feels like a way of honoring that quiet inner voice that has its own (sometimes a bit uncomfortable) ideas about beauty. I hope that by supporting myself to take this risk, I am somehow encouraging others to honor what's beautiful and unique in themselves.
What are your favorite materials to work with?
Anything natural! I love working with raw wool, obviously, but I'm also a textile fanatic and adore cotton, silk, and linen as well. They are certainly unconventional materials for a jewelry artist, but especially as the weather gets cooler I love the feeling of adorning myself in something soft, earthy, and comforting.
What are some of your favorite pieces of jewelry you’ve created and why?
I love my Equilibrium earrings and the long strands of colorful felt beads with tiny tassels - something about them just feels right to me.
A note from me…
I feel very blessed that each of these artisans agreed to be in the spotlight in this article. Their words have been thought provoking and encouraging in my quest to create meaningful pieces in beads and other media. Thanks to you all for taking the time to answer my questions. I’m definitely a fan of each of your handmade abilities and will stay connected to your sites to see what beauties you manifest there. Happy beading!
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